10 days in Morocco at the end of the winter, we were expectant of
some sunshine, but also found several days of heavy rain in the Saharan
desert of all places. Starting in Marrakesh we booked on-line to stay
in a funky designed traditional Riad in the walled Medina run by a
French gay couple. This was in stark contrast to the maze of organic
alleyways of the old town it was part of. Stepping into a world of chic
from the wild, colourful, intimidating but friendly world within a
world of the Souk.
|
 |
|
Getting lost was expected and part of the fun, then finding
ancient Islamic study schools to visit and mosque doors to peep in and
catch a glimpse of the praying. In between grabbing a mint tea and
talking with many of the friendly locals. There were some difficult
hawkers too, but generally if you initiated the conversation you could
expect to meet incredibly friendly people.
Islamic culture here is very strong but also very relaxed and accommodating in its people. Women don't generally go out to the cafe
in Moroccan culture and the man and wife lead quite separate lives out
of the home. Its quite common to see men or women holding hands here,
but rarely men holding women's hands. Although many women do not have
their heads covered this is quite a relaxed Muslim country and although
officially illegal homosexuality is tolerated.
We took a bus over the snow covered High Atlas pass of Tizi n'Tichka
2260m over to the red coloured former French garrison town of
Ouarzazate and visited the nearby Atlas film studios. Set in the desert
against a mountain backdrop that could be Tibet this is a popular film
location, including Gladiator, The 10 commandments, Cleopatra, Kundun,
Lawrence of Arabia and the Jewel of the Nile. Inside we could walk
around ancient huge Egyptian temples built from polystyrene then past
Moses' old home and the slave markets where Gladiator was made.
|
 |
|
We took a car from here for 4 days, the next day driving through the
desert through pouring rain through red towns, villages and passed
ruined kasbahs, or fortified buildings. Driving up Dades gorge in
torrential rain and snow up winding roads and through streams that ran
right across the road, we finally settled on a nice looking but
overpriced and cold hotel to shelter for the night. The next day
rewarded us with sunshine and a drive through snow up the gorge and
into the high Atlas through scenery and Moroccan villages that wouldn't
be out of place in an Afghanistan winter.
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
| In between gorges we sped through the altiplano flat desert road,
stopping to shout and scream at the nothingness and space. We arrived
at night in the Oasis town of Tinerhir, driving at night is tricky as
you don't need lights if you are travelling less than 20kph to allow
for things like goats, bikes and mopeds. Even so in town people walk in
the middle of the road and leave their bikes on the floor in the middle
of side roads, it makes driving very testing.
The Todra gorge was more stunning but didn't have the villages, we
almost ground the car snaking on a road which had half fallen away and
reduced to snow on top of rubble. We gave up in the end and walked up a
flash flood river valley (in the sunshine) for a picnic, it was one of
those inspiring travelling moments in the mountains with sun and snow.
|
|
|
|
Quite a bit of driving was still ahead of us and a night in the
desert town of Er Rachidia. Then over the the High and Middle Atlas to
Fes. One of the places we stopped at on the way, Zeida, a one street
nowwhere town, had excellent butchers and Tagine stalls. Over lamb
tagines and absinthe tea we had a crazy talk in French with the cook. I
may be a simple cook in this small town he said, but I have a book
beside me and at the same time I am studying Science, Philosophy, in
particular etymology and the life of Isaac Newton, he told us all about
the genius and life of Sir Isaac from behind the excited eyes of
someone inspired by a thirst of knowledge. A true Buddha.
|
 |
 |
|
The ancient city of Fes, or the Baghdad of the West was like
Marrakesh a place to inspire your senses. Fes is the most complete
medieval city if the Arab world, one of the most amazing spectacle
cities of the world, one of the major intellectual and cultural cities
of the Arab world and rivalling the great university cities of Europe.
With a mile long network of Souks getting lost is something you do
without trying.
The last night was quite amusing, we met with Joseph an English
traveller studying Arabic culture. In our quite posh hotel there was
also a nightclub, designed inside like a mosque but with comfortable
seating all looking out into the room. We shared a apple shisha pipe in
a room mostly populated by wealthy middle aged Moroccan men and some
rough looking prostitutes. The prostitues here were dancing with the
some of the men to a guy in the corner who was singing and playing
pretty good arabic music on his synth.
Will definately be coming back to Morocco....
Return flights were £70 using EasyJet and RyanAir
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
Last Updated ( Monday, 05 February 2007 )
|
